It runs great once started so that little bit of extra psi helps. Now this did not help with the startup but the driveability is back to perfect. What he did in the mean time is disconnect the vacuum line from it. He says it will not hold pressure due to the diaphragm being bad. He states that the diaphragm is most likely no good and that this is the reason for cold startup problems. Now he says if this is replaced it would solve all the problems. It is an adjustable fpr and he showed me when he attempts to adjust it that it does nothing. Now I went back to the mechanic who replaced pump and now he says that the regulator has gone. Once it has been started if you attempt to restart it in the first 30-45 minutes no problem fires right up, if not then its back to cranking over multiple times and doing cycling of the key. Now the next day when I attempted to start it cold it took forever. The other day I had the fuel pump changed and it greatly improved how it ran and it would start right up. As I mentioned I am not a mechanic so I am trying to piece together this information to provide to you and hopefully can set me in the right direction. Injectors are probably fine too, the car runs. The FP relay is probably fine, if it weren't you wouldn't have fuel. when you are putting the engine under load that's when its noticeable that the pump is bad, the vehicle wont pull grades easily like it used to. Most efi pumps will fire a car if going bad for awhile. Check your fuel filters, check the sock on the pickup for the pump and also check the condition of the hose intank between the fuel pump and sending unit. What I'm saying is that old IROC unit is old. Now, turn the key, it primes and fires right away and has a better top end. The hose seemed a little old, so we replaced it,and put the tank back up (car fired right up.) The car used to take cycling the key to get it to prime enough to fire, and acted similar to yours. We could hear the pump priming.so pulled the tank back down, checked the clamps and they were tight. Put the tank back up and it wouldn't start (New pump was more efficient than old 140k pump). Fuel pressure was minimal when checked, but responded a little when vacuum was applied to the regulator, we replaced the pump with a 255 walbro. Secondly, the symptoms you're describing sound familiar to what my GF's car was doing. Thanks guys I really love this forum been soaking up a lot of info.Ĭheck/repair/replace fuel filters.I would be interested in what the pressure is, psi is important with efi. Where to start is the question? Do I begin with things like the fuel pump relay or is this just something a mechanic is better off problem solving for me. I am not sure exactly where to begin but I want to try and problem solve this on my own. Not sure if this is from sloshing in the fuel tank or some other reason. It seems to not be as bad when the tank is fuller but it still happens then once in a great while. When I am driving down the road sometimes when I come to a complete stop it will stall. It seems that it is a priming issue perhaps? It never seems to start for the first few times and everytime I must go back to off position, back to on,listen to pressure blah blah. When trying to start it I must put the key into the on position first,listen to the fuel pump pressurize then give it a try. The truck seems to be starving for fuel when I try to start it and also when I come to stops. As far as the installation goes the person told me that he put the tuned port injection fuel pump into the stock el camino tank. The el camino has no performance mods other than hedman full length headers and exhaust. It has a 1986 tuned port injected motor with the 90-92 speed density system. With that said the other day I picked up this el camino. So of course I jumped right in and got a couple vehicles that I really love and I am going to learn this stuff if it kills me. Hi everyone I am brand new to these forums and very wet behind the ears when it comes to working on cars.
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